A guide to porosity, density, elasticity, and routines that respect our strands.
My Journey, Our Mission
I fell in love with natural hair at 15 (I think; maybe I was more like 17/18 when I actually fell in love lol.), and I’ve spent my career helping our community understand, celebrate, and care for textured hair. When I founded Evolving Textures in 2013, the mission was simple: revolutionize the hair care experience for wavy, curly, and coily hair through education, community, and products that respect our strands.
✨ This guide pulls together everything we’ve been talking about—porosity, scalp health, protective styling, elasticity, and moisture/protein balance—into a simple yet practical starting point for your hair journey.
Hair Type vs. Texture (and why it matters)
Hair type (curl pattern) describes the shape of the strand—straight, wavy, curly, or coily—and its subtype (we'll be referring to e.g., 2A–4C in this context). It’s just a tool, not a rule. Many of us have multiple patterns on one head.
Hair texture describes the thickness/diameter of each individual hair strand (not the scalp): fine, medium, or coarse.
Porosity, elasticity, and density are equally important. (If you missed them, see our guides: Porosity 101, Scalp Reset, and Protective vs Natural Style Guide.)
Quick reminder: Type 1 (straight) hair is typically uncommon among folks of African descent. Most of our community falls within Type 2–4.
The Big Three: Wavy, Curly, Coily
Think of it as Circle Hair — waves, curls, and coils.
Why “Circle Hair”? Because no matter the size or shape, our textured patterns all move in circles. Some are wide and loose like rippling waves, some are tight and springy like coils, and some fall in between as spirals and curls.
Circles symbolize wholeness, continuity, and community — they have no beginning and no end. In the same way, our hair carries that energy: it bends, curves, and returns back into itself, showing its natural rhythm and strength. Calling it Circle Hair shifts the focus from “types and numbers” to a universal truth — our textures are connected, just expressed in different sizes of circles.
Half-Circle Hair—Wavy (Type 2A–2C)
- Looks/feels: “S”-shaped waves; frizz-prone; can feel heavy with too much product.
- Product care focus: Lightweight moisture, frizz control, and heavy butters or creams.
- Application tip: Smooth product down, then gently lift repeatedly to encourage wave definition.
Quarter-Circle Hair—Curly (Type 3A–3C)
- Looks/feels: Medium-small ringlets to corkscrews; high-medium elasticity; thrives on moisture.
- Product care focus: Moisture, hydration, curl definition, and hold.
- Application tip: Coat evenly section by section from root to tip for defined curls.
Full-Circle Hair—Coily (Type 4A–4C)
- Looks/feels: Small springy coils or zigzags; delicate and low elasticity; sensitive to heat damage and breakage.
- Product care focus: Deep moisture, gentle detangling, safe-protective styling, and moisture sealant.
- Application tip: Style in small sections on fully hydrated hair. Detangle wet, with conditioner in.
You may be a mix. For example: 3C around the crown and 4A at the nape. Each section deserves its own care..
Hair Density: How Full Is Your Hair?
Density is about how many strands you have per square inch — not the size of the strand itself. This is why two people can both have “4C hair,” but one looks fuller and the other looks lighter. Knowing your density helps you understand how much product and what kind of styling techniques will actually work for you.
Thin Density
- Scalp is easy to see when parted.
- Styles may look “light” or less full.
- Care focus: Light layering. Too much product can weigh the hair down.
Medium Density
- Scalp is visible only in clean parts.
- Most styles hold shape easily.
- Care focus: Balanced approach — not too heavy, not too light.
Thick Density
- Scalp is hard to see, even in parts.
- Hair looks naturally full and voluminous.
- Care focus: Needs more product and patience with detangling. Work in smaller sections for best results.
💡 Quick tip: Density + porosity together will tell you exactly how much product your hair really needs.
Porosity & Elasticity — The Real Game-Changers
Hair Porosity: How easily your hair holds and absorbs water.
- Low: Absorbs slowly → prefers lighter layers and warm water.
- Normal: Balanced absorption → flexible with most routines.
- High: Soaks up fast, dries quickly → needs richer layers and a moisture sealant.
Hair Elasticity: How far your hair can stretch and bounce back without breaking. Elasticity shows how well your hair is balanced between moisture and protein.
- High elasticity: Hair stretches and springs back. This means your routine is balanced.
- Low elasticity (snaps easily): Usually needs more protein and rich moisture for strength.
💡 Elasticity is your hair’s “strength check.” It tells you if your routine is working or if your strands need a reset.
How much product should I use? (No‑guesswork guide)
Start here, then adjust by length, density, and porosity.
| Step | Wavy (2) | Curly (3) | Coily (4) | Locs/Protective Styles |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cleanser | 1–2 pumps | 2–3 pumps | 3–4 pumps | 2–3 pumps (focus scalp) |
| Conditioner | 1–2 tsp | 2–3 tsp | 1–2 Tbsp | 1–2 tsp on new growth |
| Leave-In | small coin size | medium coin | large coin | small coin on new growth |
| Styler | 1–2 tsp mousse/gel | 2–3 tsp gel | 1–2 Tbsp mousse + gel | light foam or mist to refresh |
| Moisture Sealant | skip or few drops | few drops | small scoop | few drops on scalp/lengths as needed |
- High density? Add 25–40%.
- Fine strands? Use about 20% less.
Technique matters (a lot)
- Distribution: Apply product piece by piece. Start to apply the product at the base of the hair, avoiding the scalp when necessary.
- Encourage curl grouping: Add water while styling and smooth product through so your curls come together instead of separating. Grouped curls = more definition, shine, and less frizz. (keep a small spray bottle handy.)
- Dry Smart: Sit under a hooded dryer on medium for 15-20 minutes. Use a diffuser on low/medium for loose curly or wet 'n' go styles. Don’t touch until fully dry, then gently separate if needed using a light oil to avoid frizzing.
- Detangle right: Always on soaked, conditioned hair—from tip to roots.
- For locs/twists/braids: Clarify monthly to manage product buildup; rinse thoroughly; keep scalp balanced between retwists or touch-ups.
What Types of Products Are Good?
- Gentle Cleanser (sulfate‑free): Lifts debris without stripping—great for weekly wash days.
- Moisture‑Rich Conditioner (slip for detangling): Quenches and softens; ideal for coily textures and high porosity.
- Lightweight Leave‑In or Water-Based Moisture Spray: Prime and hydrate without weight—perfect for waves and fine curls.
- Curl Defining Gel or Styling Gel: Hold + definition while keeping touchable softness.
- Sealant Butter/Oil Blend: Locks in moisture for coils and high‑porosity hair.
- Monthly Clarifying Rinse: Resets the scalp and removes buildup (especially helpful for locs and protective styles).
Common questions I hear:
- “I have two textures. Which routine do I follow?” Treat each section by its own unique needs; use lighter stylers where your hair is wavier and richer where it’s more coily.
- “My hair looks dull.” You may need a clarifying reset or more water during styling. Check our Scalp Reset guide.
- “Frizz, always.” Try styling on wetter hair, use a gel and foam layer, and keep hands off until completely dry.
-
“My curls don’t bounce back when I pull them.”
This points to elasticity. If hair feels stiff and breaks, add protein. If it stretches but doesn’t return, add more moisture.
Final Thoughts
By understanding your unique curl pattern, elasticity, porosity, and routine, you’ll get consistent, healthy results. I’d love to hear your journey—tag #EvolvingTextures or drop a comment below with your texture mix and go‑to routine. We’re building this together!